Spring is here.
The season for renewal and reinvention. It's been a banner year for
surf so far. Reflect on those back-to-back north swells in December
and January. On a recent Saturday morning I was checking the waves
from the boardwalk in South Mission with some of my neighbors. I said
it looked like a good day for Blacks and asked if anyone wanted to
go. There were no takers, so I asked why. All four men said they rarely
strayed from the stretch of beach before us. "We've marked our
territory," was the explanation but they didn't say "marked".
Lack of imagination? I think more a testament to the excellent and
diverse surf venue we have between Blacks and Sunset Cliffs. All of
Southern California for that matter. This made me consider the assortment
of surfers riding these waves.
Our sport has come to a point of great diversity with the millennium
. Let's take a moment to celebrate diversity. Our unique stretch of
America is home to all ways, all lengths, all styles, all sizes, all
reasons, all colors and all moods. As we look forward to June 3 and
the Summer Classic at Tourmaline, let's come together to make Pacific
Beach Surf Club strong, fun and better off for diversity. Come to the
general meeting Thursday, April 6, at 7:00 p.m., at the VFW Hall and
contribute that unique energy that is yours alone and join together
with people
who share your passion to shape the future and preserve the stoke.
Come share about your stand out days this winter, share your ideas
for our upcoming contest, share your unique vision of our sport. Next
time you paddle out anywhere between Blacks and the Cliffs you just
might be surfing with a new friend or two.
Mark
your calendars: Saturday, June 3
Place: Tourmaline Surfing Park
Spring
has sprung, and that means it won't be too long before our
club's premier event of the year is upon us. In fact, it's
just two month's away! Help!
Actually,
the Summer Longboard Classic committee has met several times
already and preparations are well under way. But we really
do need your help. We need volunteers who can help before,
during and after the event. At dark-30, before the crowds
start arriving, we need volunteers to help set up tents,
tables, chairs and the like. During the day-long event we
need volunteers to help man various key areas such as the
food table, the merchandise tent, the raffle ticket sales
table and so on. At the end of the day when we're all tired,
sun-burned and cranky, we need help taking everything down
and packing up. I know, it's no fun, but it has to be done.
If you're
interested in volunteering for at least a couple of hours
that day, contact the president, Kathy
Austin, or the editor, Richard
Steadham, and we'll get you on our list and put you to
good work wherever we may need you that day.
Click
on images below to view
larger versions with captions.
Otis, Halley and Smitty taking a break
from the midday heat.
High
reverse stag
Tandem
teams. Halley and Travis at far left.
Tandem
exhibition with Travis and Halley on the left.
Lion
statue at the Australia
Zoo, Beerwah, Queensland.
Notice the
UFO
hovering
in the upper right-hand corner of this shot.
A wallaby
mugs for the camera.
Halley
makes some friends (notice the baby in the mother's pouch).
BRICKS & BUTTERFLIES
By
Travis Long
Driving north
along the Bruce Highway from Brisbane to Noosa Heads, it became
blatantly apparent that Halley and
I were
in for the surf
trip of a lifetime. Passing through the Shires of Caloundra,
Maroochydore, and Mooloolaba, we decided to take the coast route
so we could
take a look at the surf.
The view from
the airplane led us to believe there was considerable swell running,
and we were
not disappointed. In fact, upon
arrival at Coolum Beach, near Perigean, we were astonished
at the pure
size and mass of water moving out there. It seems we had
caught the tail
end of what the locals were calling one of the biggest swells
in 30 years. With no one out to judge the size of the waves,
we had
to imagine ourselves surfing out there to get a true scale
of how big it really was. After watching a few sets, and
realizing
how
big it really was, that’s when I started “shitting
bricks”.
Now I’m
no stranger to big waves, but we’d traveled 9,000
miles to surf the tandem division of the Noosa Festival
of Surf. I was a little taken aback by the sheer size and power
of the Queensland
surf. My partner Halley Burd is possibly the most capable
and talented woman I’ve ever met. She is by far the
most fearless of all tandem girls I’ve surfed with.
We had surfed big waves tandem in the past, maybe 12-15
foot faces, but this was for real. I’d
estimate 3-4 times overhead, a solid 25-30 foot faces.
Bricks I tell you.
We looked at
each other with raised eyebrows but no words.
Bricks. The only words I could think of to console her
was, “maybe
the surf will drop before our heat.” You see, when
it comes to consoling a 19-year-old girl, I’m about
as expert as a palsey victim doing brain surgery with
a pipe wrench (1). Slowly
and quietly
we continued our journey north to the beautiful town
of Noosa Heads.
Upon arrival,
we were greeted by Swamis Surfing Association’s
Otis Sistrunk (not the football player) and Dave “Smitty” Smith,
Swamis’s old school ringer. After checking in,
it took about three seconds flat to drop our bags,
throw on trunks, set up fins,
and make it to the beach. Luckily, main beach was protected
from the brunt of the massive swell that was visible
crossing the outer
points and crashing along 40-mile beach. We paddled
out into perfect head-high right point surf. No more
bricks.
The swell took
a powder, but the after effects could
still be seen. The beach erosion and the destroyed
shark nets.
According to the
locals, the shark nets don’t really work anyway.
As
Murphy’s Law would have it, the swell dropped
so much the organizers decided to hold the first
three days of the event
over
the hill on Sunshine Beach. The venue was open
to onshore winds, and was pretty much blown out
by 9:00
a.m. Luckily, the swell picked
up on Saturday and Sunday, so main beach was back
on.
Being our first
pro event together, there were considerable butterflies, at least
there were for
me. My fearless
partner however, showed
no signs of trepidation. In fact, it was in the
semis I learned how
truly competitive Halley really is. We surfed
well in the semis and secured a spot in the finals the
next day.
More
butterflies.
Surfing is
usually an individual sport where your own talent is all you
need. Tandem surfing
however,
involves
a much
different team
dynamic. After traveling so far for this event,
I didn’t want
to let her down. After overcoming a rotator
cuff injury earlier last month, I was a little
worried
about my right arm. The one I do most
of the lifting with. But thanks to Malibu Rum
and Aloha Nossa Massage, all competitors could
get free massages. That’s when I learned
about Lawang Oil. Lawang oil is manufactured
from a tree that grows on only one island in
Indonesia. It’s used for muscle aches
and joint pains. The only thing I can compare
it to is DMSO (dimethylsulfoxide). A horse
liniment used on a horse’s hocks to relieve
pain. In baseball, we’d use it as a painkiller
on our arm so we could pitch longer. But DMSO
is so powerful it made your breath reek.
Lawang oil works just as well, if not better,
but without that nasty pong
(Australian for bad oder).
So finals day
finally came with the usual routine. Wake up at 5:30
a.m., walk through the national
park past
the bush
turkeys
and
the occasional Koala to Tea Tree Point. Surf,
walk back, wake up Halley,
eat breakfast, and find some way to occupy
your mind before the inevitable. Three o’clock
finally rolls around so Halley, myself, and
my butterflies all hit the water for what
we came for. After a frustrating
first few minutes, Halley and I managed to
score three solid waves doing an arabesque,
a one-arm back, then a high-reverse stay
(I don’t
expect you to know what that is, but O.K.).
Then
there’s the wait. Wait to see how
it all comes down. Waiting for the rest
of the
finals to end. Waiting for the interviews
to
end. Waiting for the award ceremony. Waiting.
To
make this long story short, we took third.
Finished in the money, although
not much
money, but a good
showing nonetheless.
In second
place was former Australian champion
Chris DeAboitiz and his partner. Former world champion Rico Leroy
of France and his partner took
first.
All in all
it was an amazing three weeks of surf. The contest was well judged
and
incredibly
well
organized. What I came
away from
Australia with is a great respect for
their culture. Their humor is self-deprecating
and very tongue-in-cheek.
Nothing
is off
limits: politics, religion or pomegranates
(foreigners). One thing they
don’t
take lightly is their sport. No matter
what sport. They respect it like no other
culture. That’s what I love about
Australia. Good on ya.
TurnHere.com website.
PB Surf Club's longtime member and historian Bobby
Challenger Thomas narrates a portion of the flick and talks
about the early history of Pacific Beach and the local surf scene
here (frames one and two). The original PB Surf Club was founded
back in 1957. The club was re-founded in 1993 by Glenn Paculba,
owner of
Star Surfing Company, who also makes a brief appearance. Bobby introduces viewers
to local attractions such as the Crystal Pier (built in 1927), Tourmaline Surfing
Park, and PB Point (nicknamed Gunner's Point after the bombing of Pearl Harbor).
Sharing narrating duties is local photographer
Alicia
Wszelaki who takes viewers on a tour of Garrnet Avenue, PB's main drag
for food, fashion and just plain makin' the scene. The film was produced by
Rob
Amato, and is a must see for those who love Pacific Beach.
A new surf exhibit
called "Taming the Pacific Swell" opened
in March at the Maritime Museum
of San Diego. The
exhibit is presented
in partnership with the California
Surf Museum of Oceanside. Running
through January of 2007, it traces the history of modern
surfing from its humble Hawaiian beginnings to the billion dollar
industry it is today using changes in surfboard design to illustrate
the evolution of the sport. At 12 bucks a head for adults
($8 for children), it's on the pricey side, but included in
that price is access to all the museum's exhibits
on all vessals in their impressive collection. That goes a
long way in easing the capital outlay. Check it out.
A common misconception
with the ocean is that it causes sinus infections. Poor sinus
drainage and dirty water can lead to sinus infections.
Some people due to their anatomy do not have good drainage
from their sinuses surrounding the nose inside their face. The
sinuses are lined by the same type
of tissue that lines the inside of our nose. When we get a
cold or have allergy problems that tissue swells up. So does
the tissue lining the already small
opening draining our sinuses into our nose. So this opening
gets sealed off and now becomes a good environment for bacterial
growth. Where do these bugs come from? Polluted ocean water near
rain outfalls (such as here) can get flushed into our sinuses,
and if the situation happens as described above, these bacteria
can start growing. Our own natural bacteria in our sinuses can
grow excessively and create an infection as well if they are
blocked off from draining.
The ocean in
itself, if it is not contaminated, is an excellent
source for flushing out your sinuses. All of the over the
counter ocean sprays are sea water in a bottle. So what do I do
to prevent them?
1.First
it is cold and flu season, so don’t surf when
you are sick. Chances are these viruses are going to cause
the openings of your sinuses to swell shut and pushing dirty
sea water in that cant get out sets you up.
2. Stay well
hydrated! Drink lots of water. When your fluid level is low (dehydration)
the lining of your nose and sinuses produce thick sticky mucous
that doesn’t drain very well, walla, plugged sinuses.
3.
Flush you nose out everytime you get done surfing. What sniff
water? No don’t inhale it, suck just enough water from
the shower by the bathrooms until you feel it in the back of
your throat, its an art. The cold water will sting. Formulas
are available over the counter at drug stores that come with
a bottle, baking soda/salt mix, and you add warm water. You
can do it at home right after you finish. This may help to
remove and bacteria or viral particles from the surface of
the tissue in the nose
before it digs in.
4. Last but
not lease, go see your doctor if you are feeling ill. Most sinus
and nasal discomfort is
caused by viral infections. No, asking your doctor
for antibiotics wont help you. But for persistent
facial pain that doesn’t go away after your cold may be
the signs of a sinus infection. So go see the doc.
Volunteers from
the San Diego Chapter of the Surfrider
Foundation showed up at Tourmaline for one of their
beach cleanups on Saturday, February 25th. Thanks Surfrider!
As
the editor of this newsletter, I'm always going to be
looking for "content" to
put into
this publication each month. To that end, I'm inviting members
to send me material suitable for inclusion in upcoming issues.
This is your communications vehicle, and it should reflect your ideas
and
images.
Each month
I'm going to need a lead
photo (top of the page) which I will then posterize (in Photoshop)
and overlay with the
club's logo and CURRENTS title. If I use your photo, you'll get a
credit line in the bottom section of this page where legalities
are taken
care of (see below for this month's credit).
If you're an
artist, showcase your surfing related art here for all to see
and enjoy. If you have a website for your art, I can link to
it from your art which is presented here. The same goes with
photography. Do you have some great shots you'd like to share
with the rest
of us? When and where were they taken? Who is in the shot? Tell
us about them and send them in.
Do you like
to write? Go to a surfing event and write a report. Do a review
on the latest surf DVD or music CD with a connection to surfing.
On your next surfing trip with the guys, take along a camera
and
capture
some
memorable
moments
such as catching
a
sunset
surf session, shopping at a local fish market, or preparing food
around a campfire. Think surf movie. Then write about it when
you return. Speaking
of writing, the "Letters" section will return when
I receive one. Hint, hint.
The bottom
line is: if it's about surfing, and you think the rest of the
club might benefit--or be entertained--by your unique
perspective, send it in and get noticed!
Jun
3: Pacific Beach Summer Longboard Classic; PB
Surf Club: Tourmaline Surfing Park
Do you have a used
surfboard, wetsuit or other surfing related item you'd like to unload,
'er, sell? Our new "For Sale" section is the place to do it. Send information
(including a photo if you'd like) to the editor, Richard
Steadham, and get it sold
here. Please note that this service is for PB Surf Club members only
(dues current), and is free to them. Not a member? Now's
as good a time as
any to join the coolest surf club
in
So Cal. If interested, come to our next club meeting on April 6, noted
in the section above.