Team Riders!
Time to tune your beachbreak skills this weekend at Oceanside.
Gretchen Harris has sent me tentative heat sheets for Saturday
(see below) and there is always room for more alternates in this
event. Anyone else want
to surf? Contact me ASAP as I don't want Gretchen to have to make
changes on Friday. Phone 858-204-6417 or 858-405-9168.
That
pretty much sums up the wave conditions for this year's contest
at Malibu. Even though we
knew the surf wasn't going to be epic before heading north,
our expectations were still conjuring up at least knee-to-waist-high,
machine-honed walls of glass off that legendary point. The reality
of it once
there however was more akin to ankle-to-mid-calf sets with
the
occasional
knee-to-waist-high
rogue rolling
in. It was downright
dismal.
Still, it was
Malibu and the vibe on the beach among the 12 invited clubs was:
let's have a good time in spite of the miniscuel surf. And so we
did.
Many from our
club made the trip up on Friday and were able to get a little time
in the water before the competition began on Saturday. The sun
was shinning and the water refreshing with nary a wetsuit in sight.
Other clubs had the same idea of course and it was every man and
woman
for
themselves
scratching for even the hint of a wave on the horizon coming
their way. I'm sure the locals didn't even bother, knowing two
things: a bunch of out-of-towners were descending on their break
and there
wasn't any surf to speak of anyway. Have at it.
Some club
members spent the night on the beach or in their vehicles in the
parking lot, figuring a ticket would be worth
the risk if caught. Others slept in their vehicles right on Pacific
Coast Highway and kept a low profile. A sizable contingent had
reserved rooms at the Good Nite Inn, 10 miles
up Malibu Canyon Road in Calabasas for the next two nights. After
this group (which I was one) had
all
finally arrived in staggered intervals, we gathered at a great
little Italian restaurant called
"Spumoni's" just up the road for pasta and libations to get the
weekend off right.
Early the next
morning with sleep in the corner of our eyes and the taste of garlic
in our mouths, we each wound our way back down the fog-shrouded
canyon to the contest about the begin.
The morning started
off cool and gray with a stubborn marine layer holding
back the sun's rays until almost noon. Leading the charge for the
club
in only the second heat of the morning was Nick D'Rov in
the Jr. Men's 15-19 division. Rules for the small weekend's waves
were
to be four waves maximum, with two of them counting towards one's
score. Nick found it difficult, as many would later, to even find
four waves in one's heat to ride. When his heat was over, he was
left with a 5th place showing and one more contest disappointment
for this talented young surfer.
New
team rider Matt
Dalton surfing in the Men's 30-39 division a few heats
later got the ship
turned
around and heading back in the right direction by taking 1st in
his heat. Matt was fun to watch, perched on the nose with
such a laid back, traditional style, and he did it in surf barely
knee high. Welcome to the team Matt!
Surfing in the
same division a couple of heats later, Travis Long found
just the right combination of outside, knee-high monsters and inside
ankle-slappers
to advance with a 3rd place notch on the rod.
Pete
Robson in
only his second contest outting for the club in the Men's 40-49
category saw meager conditions during his heat almost void of
swell
energy
and
a chance at
catching even the minimum two waves for scoring. He wound up 5th
and for the rest of the day found a permanent place in the
tent watching others either advance or suffer his fate.
PACIFIC
BEACH SURFING HISTORY:
THE FIRST SURF CLUB
By Bobby
Challenger Thomas
Kanakas
Reunion (left to right): Bob Hein, Larry Gordon, Marvin Pierce,
Jim
Cerone, Roy Barksdale, Eddy Cruz, Bobby "Challenger" Thomas,
Surf
Dog (at my feet) and Bill "Hadji" Hein.
Profile: Kanakas
Surf Club 1956
This is the first surf club in Pacific Beach. The name came from
San Diego surf pioneer, Bill “Hadji” Hines, who had
suggested the name to his son Bob and friends, after learning
the name meant "beach person" in Hawaiian.
The photo above
was taken during a Kanakas reunion back in 1989 while on a surf
trip with
Baja Surf Adventures. I am so lucky to have friendships that
have lasted for more than 50 years and we are still doing what
we did best as kids,
surfing together at the Crystal Pier. You might not be able to
make it out from this photo, but the cool original club logo on
our T-shirts was Goofy the cartoon character dog on a surfboard.
I was 11 years
old in 1954 when I met my first Kanaka, Ferggy Maycumber, who would
secure his wooden surfboard to a long wagon connected to his
bike and
off to the beach to surf he would go. This was
the beginning of a friendship with one of the oldest-living
friends I have today, and after all these years, still have something
in common. It's the same for you as a club member, riding
waves with your friends on a surfboard. How can that be?
Like
walking
on water.
1954 was also
the same year I entered PB Elememtary School and met Gayle Myers
(Gordon &
Smith
Surfboards legend). A few years later
I met
Larry
Gordon and Floyd Smith at Crystal Pier. I must have been about
13 or 14 years old at the time. Who would have ever thought
that these two surfers would become owners of one of
the longest-surviving surfboard building companies in the world.
I am proud to have been a part of the Gordon & Smith legacy as
one of their shapers in the early years.
Malibu
Paddle Relay: The members of the paddle relay team are
my heroes. They all finished with stamina, style and class at
the famous Malibu Boardriders
Club "Call
to the
Wall." Great job
at Malibu
by out-paddling nine other teams and taking 5th place. That is an
improvement from Santa Cruz by two places. Please report to Richard
Steadham at 3pm on Saturday,
if Team Captain
Travis has signed you up for the paddle team lineup. I really had
fun coaching the Malibu relay and building a winning attitude
for
the future.
Oceanside
Contest: This
Pier break can get really big like Huntington. I have surfed
it
several times like this and based on the Hurricane off Hawaii,
you can expect sets to be overhead.
Look for these pikes, most will have a clean face allowing a connection for nose
rides and off-the-lip smacks on the shore break. Do not get caught inside when
a set comes.
Wait it out. Good luck surfing.
Triva: What
year was the Kanakas Surf Club formed in the community of Pacific
Beach? If you are first with answer, you
will received a
special
T-shirt. Contact the editor
with your answer.
Bobby Challenger Thomas on a big one during a
contest at the Oceanside Pier.
The photo was taken by Jim Pidgeon from the
pier.
Photos from the Bobby Challenger Thomas Collection
KNOW HOW
PBSC held its
second surf clinic July 14 at Tourmaline Surf Park. We offered
three divisions, beginner, intermediate
and advanced/noseriding. Attendance was best ever with 20 beginners,
six intermediates and eight advanced. Celia Treamer instructed
her beginners, ages five to 50 in safe board handling, wave
reading,
paddling and popping up. Omar Metwalli broke
down wave selection, bottom turn and trim techniques for the
intermediates,
and Pablo
Smith and Jim "Spinner" Cameron explained
the fine points of noseriding, cross step
and drop knee cut backs to good surfers looking to take it to
the next level.
Competition team riders, Jane Mold and Dave
Washkowiak, handled
the mob at check in and the instructors split their groups into
ground
school before taking to the surf. All three groups put in about
an hour of water time in cool, glassy peaks. Participants assembled
at the grass area for Jerome Hall’s presentation
on safety and etiquette. Jerome inspired all listeners and imparted
his own
wonderful aloha spirit.
Huge thanks to Celia, Omar, Pablo, Jim and Jerome and all the
PBSC members who supported this effort. We gained ten new members
and
raised nine hundred dollars for the club. New friends were made,
skills learned and honed, and everyone was stoked. Isn’t that
what it’s all about? Don’t miss the next clinic.
Bring your family and friends.
Photos in the above montage from Ron Greene
and JT Meadows
FILL
THE WELL, DRAW THE WATER
By Jerome
Lynn Hall
"When I say my prayers in the morning, I stretch out my
arms, like a person gathering in wheat, I grab all the sunshine
and fresh air…I try to fill myself with good things. Everything
I do is an effort to align myself with the great vitality of
life." Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz
If you’ve been down to Tourmaline Canyon this summer,
you’ve probably seen “Doc” Paskowitz and his
son, Izzy, running surfing clinics and Surfers Healing camps.
“
Doc” moved to San Diego in 1934 from Galveston, Texas,
when he was just a young man. He became a lifeguard in Mission
Beach, a “local” at San Onofre, and an important
figure in the Southern California surf scene. After getting his
medical degree at Stanford in 1946, he went into the military
and eventually settled in Israel, where he hoped to get Arabs
and Jews surfing together!
“
Doc” came back to the states and practiced his craft as
he raised a large and closely-knit family. His credentials – both
in the water and out – are impressive: surfer, healer,
teacher, and author. Recently, his book, Surfing and Health:
Live Long Live Well. (Juliette Publishing. Honolulu, Hawai’i)
was republished. Pick up a copy before the summer ends; I think
you’ll enjoy his knack for story telling and his sage
advice.
If surfing
has a proponent of health, it’s “Doc” Paskowitz.
Since his days as a young medical practitioner, he has been
an advocate of proper exercise, nutrition, and rest to build
a healthy
body, mind, and spirit. Though “Doc” will tell
you that it all begins with a strong and fit body, he sees
it
as one big, inseparable package.
Everything,
it seems, emanates from self-respect. Without an appetite for
rightness in our
bodies, hearts, minds, and
spirits,
we will never cultivate appropriate relationships with
others or our environment.
There is
a “vitality” to
life that too often goes unacknowledged. You can miss it
if you aren’t careful.
The next time you walk down to the shore and put your
board in the water, pause for a moment. Look around and consider
how everything
you see is important. Then ask yourself: in the few
moments that I spend here today, how can I make this
a better place?
For
starters, exchange a kind word with someone between
sets – someone
you don’t know; encourage a beginner; pick up
trash on your way back in. Go home and
nourish those you love; remember those who love you
and ponder how truly
lucky you really are.
Align yourself
with the vitality of life!
Fill your
well often and fully. Draw deeply. You won’t
go thirsty and you’ll always have water to
share.
That’s aloha.
Quote
experted from “Sound in Body and Spirit,” by
Terry Tomalin, St. Petersburg Times, 29 April 2003.
Photo courtesy of Izzy Paskowitz
CLUB
NEWS & MORE
New Women's
Surf Magazine Online: Listen up ladies! There's a new webzine dedicated
to YOU: Women's
Surf World. Co-founded in July by club member
Jane Mold and Windansea club veteran Linda
Van Zandt, their endeavor
was created with the intention of filling the void that currently
exists in the surf industry with regards to the feminine point
of view; to serve as a forum, share information
and generate enthusiasm for women surfers of all ages and abilities
in a supportive environment. To see the premier issue, go to:
Club Surf
n' Bar-B-Que:
On August 10th the club had an evening surf session (if
you want
to call it that; the
waves
were
knee-high slop) and Bar-B-Que at the back of Tourmaline Surf
Park. Organized by President Torrey Brown, it
was an enjoyable evening of friends, food and conversation, despite
the lousy surf earlier. By the time things got
rolling, 22 members, guests and Tourmo regulars
had
partaken
in
the tasty
fixin's Masi Saili had cooked up.
Save Trestles
Update:
The Surfrider Foundation needs your help. If you're interested in volunteer
training on what you can do, they'll be holding a training session
on August 30 at 7 p.m., location still to be decided (stay tuned).
The California Coastal Commission will be hearing the application for
the
proposed
toll road
in October
at a hearing in San Pedro (near the LA Harbor). It is one of the most
important meetings in regards to stopping the toll road and Surfrider
wants to get as many people there as possible from all over Southern
California to attend the hearing. To that end, they'll be renting charter
buses to get their
supporters up there and all will receive "Save Trestles" T-shirts,
signs and banners. For those who would like to speak during the comment
period, Surfrider will provide talking points to focus on. Their main
objective is to have an enormous presence. To learn more go to: