Okay kids, get
ready for Malibu this weekend. Looks like a fun time. We're sending
a full team and have a big support crew as well... I wonder which
groms get initiated this year? My advice to you: sleep with one
eye open (fair warning).
Here's the team
roster and heat times for first round action on Saturday:
Nick
D'Rov (6:15 am) and MaxUlman (6:30
am) in the Jr. Mens' 15-19.
Derek
Lodico (7:45 am) and Travis Long (8:15
am) in the Sr. Mens' 30-39.
Pete
Robson (9:00 am) and Jeff Hackert (9:30
am) in the Masters' 40-49.
Dave
Sams (9:45 am) and Josh Hall (10:15
am) in the Mens' 20-29.
Ron Greene (11:15
am) and Pablo Smith (11:45 am) in the Grand Masters'
50-59.
Harley
Taich (1:00 pm) and Nick Hastings (1:30
pm) in the Menehunes'.
Makela
Saili (2:00 pm) and sister Mele (2:15 pm)
in the Jr. Womens' 15-19.
Debra
Hoyt (3:00 pm) and
Kaley Swift (3:30 pm) in the Womens' 20-34.
Kathy
Austin and Jane Mold in
the Sr. Womens' 35+ (heat times yet unknown).
Bobby
Challenger (5:30 pm) in the Legends' 60-69.
Be sure to bring
your beach chairs, sun block and good vibes. The club will have
at least three, and maybe four, tents to gather under for shade.
All club members, whether competing or not, are welcome and encouraged
to join us. Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed on the beach, but
are in the parking
lot.
And finally,
the unsavory business part. The treasurer has asked me to tell
all of you to have your entry fees paid BEFORE heading up to Malibu.
If
you
don't,
you
won't
surf. We have several alternates in some divisions standing by—with
money—to take your place. If you have any questions, contact me
at: surfrat@ureach.com.
Phone:
858-204-6417 or 858-405-9168.
Caio,
Travis Long
Team Captain
By Celia Treamer
May 19th 2007
we flew out of San Diego with a quick stop in Arizona. We picked
up my brother from a connecting fight. My brother
Paul lives
in New Mexico and spends his time traveling to surf spots all
over the world, this year alone: Costa Rica, Bali, and mainland
Mexico. He was our surf guide and plus he is a ripper in the surf
and
speaks
Spanish like speedy Gonzales. A few hours later we arrived at
the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo aerpuerto. Zihjuatanejo (Zihua-for the loco
locals)
our final destination 1-hour north was Troncones.
Troncones, La
Barra de Potosí, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo,
Mexico are located on La Costa Grande of the state of Guerrero
about 240
kilometers (144 miles)
northwest of Acapulco. Both Acapulco and Morelia are about 4 hours driving
time from Zihuatanejo.
Zihuatanejo is
a really cool town with family-run guest inns, hotels, condominiums,
which overlook the bay
and beaches as well
as the homes, neighborhoods, apartments,
stores, shops, and businesses, The food is amazing, the water is warm,
and the beer is cold. The surf is only good when it gets
a pumping swell with
a specific
direction and the stars need to be aligned and the wind has to be right
and there can't be too many gringos in the water…just
kidding. We stayed the night after a sunset swim, the water
was 80 degrees and early in the morning,
off we
went heading Norte to Troncones.
Troncones is
small beachfront community, part of the Municipio of La Unión
in the state of Guerrero. It is home to about 500 permanent residents
of mainly fishermen, farmers and ranchers. Troncones has also
become
one of Mexico's favorite beachfront
eco-resorts. There are Yoga retreats right along side crazy beachfront
bars and restaurants. There are no high-rise hotels, shopping
centers or clubs here. The
area of Troncones from south of the village, north to the neighboring
village of Majahua, is dotted with small guest inns, vacation
homes, bungalows, and Bed & Breakfasts
interspersed with various seafood restaurants and low-key beach clubs.
It is a super mellow town with warm and friendly locals.
The area has many great surf spots known to surfers worldwide.
The great thing about this variety is there's good surfing
somewhere along the
coast in every
season.
The
closest spot is right in front, Troncones Point, but there are
shore breaks
up and down Troncones Beach, so you're almost
always within
walking
distance
of good waves when there's surf. Troncones Point is a left-point
break off a rocky stretch, directly in front of the Manzanillo
Inn. The depth
is about
6-10
feet at different points in the line-up and gets shallower in moderate
range to the beach. In fact, all the breaks down in this area are
lefts. I’m
regular but I love lefts too!
When we got into
Troncones it was head-high thumping beach break close outs. We
checked the point and it was
small and not holding
up. We
decided to get
a place to stay and then look for surf. We found an amazing place
called Casa Ki
and they had a 2 bed, 2-bath house on the beach with a great kitchen,
hammocks, palapas, and a killer view. It was beautifully landscaped
and tropical.
The best part was there was always cold beer provided by the owner’s
refrigerator (if you happened to run out).
We knew we wanted
to go to a spot north about 30 miles called "The Ranch." We only
brought
short boards and heard this spot was fun
and the surf in
Troncones wasn’t
looking so hot. When we got there after a crazy Burro, pig, cattle
riddled road we knew we were at the right spot for our equipment.
All photos
in this section courtesy of Celia Treamer.
GONE
SURFING
By Bobby
Challenger Thomas
Trivia Answer:
DUKE KAHANAMOKU, Father of Modern Day Surfing.
And the Winner
of Classic Tee Shirt is Chris Rule, thanks for reading the column.
Working
final magic on the paddleboard. I would like the paddle team
members to check in with me on Saturday before 4 pm down by the
pier. That way we all can
have a paddle-out maiden voyage and check out the speed
of the board. It will also give us a short work out.
PS:
If you cannot find me check with Team Captain Travis Long.
Woody
Brown is no stranger to those of us who grew up in San Diego. A true
pioneer in many respects, he was the first to
surf Windansea Beach in the 1930s. Later, in 1939, Woody set
world gliding records for altitude and distance; four years
later he traveled to the Christmas Islands where his observations
of Polynesian outrigger canoes became the designs for his construction
of the first modern catamarans!
But Woody’s life wasn’t
always so glamorous. In fact, it was beset with many tragedies,
the most devastating of which
was the passing of his wife, Betty, who died in childbirth in
1939. Grief-stricken and completely beside himself, Woody left
his possessions and newborn son in La Jolla and escaped to Hawaii.
In David Brown’s DVDs “Of Wind and Waves: The Life
of Woody Brown.” and “Surfing for Life,” Woody tells his story:
“Two
days after I got back [from setting the world gliding records],
my wife …died in childbirth and it was just more
than I could take. I just made my world record, I was up
on the
top of the world, I had everything I could
possibly want, and then she died like that and the whole ground fell
out from under me and I had nothing left.
I cracked
up…walkin’ around
the street all night. I couldn’t
sleep and finally I just said to the Lord, ‘Kill me, I don’t
want to live anymore.’ And I couldn’t take care of my little
boy, I couldn’t
even take care of me; how could I take care of him? My wife’s brother
and his family were very happy to adopt him. Well I just took off for
Hawai’i
and left everything, house, cars, everything. I don’t know what
happened to any of it. I just ended up here in Hawaii and started life
all over again.
'I
started bumming around the islands, just nothing, a pair
of shorts and a bicycle. It was getting late at night and
I was coming to a house. Why, I’d stop
and say, ‘Could I just spend the night? I’d be glad to
pay for it!’
‘Oh,
come in! Come in! Pay nothing!’ And they would just give
me everything and sometimes I couldn’t leave; they’d
make me stay for a week!
They
had so much aloha, love in their heart for everybody.”
I recently
returned from a trip to Australia where, along with my friend
and colleague, Jack Hamlin, we journeyed to
Woolongong University to
co-present a lecture and to spend time surfing the west coast.
While standing on a
busy street
corner one morning in Manly, a suburb of Sydney, we were approached
by a stranger
who overheard us discussing the local architecture. When he found
out that we came to surf, he told us he would like to take
us around to
the various
breaks.
The next
morning, Ian Reeder picked us up in his VW combi, took us to
his home, introduced us to his family, and spent
the entire
day
driving
us
around to
every break between Manly and Palm Beach. We even had the chance
to watch World Pro
Derek Hynd surf at Newport Beach, a truly memorable day for us
in New South Wales!
I am constantly
reminded that there is much goodness around us. Every now and
then, people who embody the
spirit of aloha come
into our
lives. Aloha:
it’s
more than a quaint Hawaiian word; for Jack and me, it’s
the traveler’s
dream of feeling welcomed in a foreign land. And for others,
like Woody Brown, it’s a life redeemed by the kindness
of strangers.
Think about
aloha; seize every opportunity to put it into practice. Then
stand back quietly and watch how
your life is magically
renewed.
Its that time
of the year, warm water, lots of tourists and family in town,
lets take em’ surfing! You would think pretty harmless
for a beginning surfer. In the next few health corner articles I am
going to go over some of the medical conditions related to the “new
surfer”. This issue involves one of the more serious potential
side effects.
A 25 year old
medical student, and son of a Japanese Neurologist, is visiting
Hawaii and like many tourists before him
decides to take a
surf lesson. After he is done with his session in the water he
develops a pain in his lower back and numbness in his legs. Shortly
after
he collapses on the beach. After arriving to the nearest hospital
he is
evaluated and found to be paralyzed from the waist down, which
to this day is permanent.
I know you are
thinking he must of bailed hard on a wave or twisted something
or maybe he was hit by a surfboard.
None were the case.
He was suffering what other beginning surfers have presented
with in the
past now called Surfer’s Myelopathy.
"My who?” Yeah I hear ya.
Myelopathy –“pathos” or
pathy means disease or suffering. Myelo or “myelos” means
marrow or spinal cord.
Over the years
more and more people have taken up surfing. In the age of adrenalin
and gun ho attitude
about sports
performance many
new
sports injuries have emerged from the ashes, surfing is
no different.
An emergency
room in Hawaii has had nine patients with surfer's myelopathy between
June 1998 and January 2003
which was tracked
and findings were
published in the SPINE journal. The average age was 25.
Below is a brief description by a Neurologist Dr. James
Pearce
from the
Straub
Clinic in Hawaii.
” Surfer's
myelopathy is a unique spinal-cord injury associated with first-time
surfing:
Cause: Repeated
hyperextension of the back during a long period on the surfboard,
causing temporary problems
of
blood flow
to the spinal
cord.
Symptoms: Ranging
from mild weakness and sensory problems to back pain, partial paralysis
of lower
limbs and
paralysis of
lower half
of the
body.
Treatment: Varies
depending on the case.
Outcome: Most
have full or nearly complete recovery, but some remain paraplegic.
Advice
to first-time surfers: Don't stay out on the board for a long
time; head back to
the beach
with
any sign
of unusual
back
pain."
Please
welcome the following new (and renewing) members into the club.
Be sure to show them the PBSC aloha spirit when you see
him at future club meetings and events.
In May, President
Jeff Hackert moved to Los Angeles and summarily
tendered his resignation as president of the club. He said he still
wanted to
be involved with club activities whenever he could however and requested
that he remain on the Board of Directors and just switch places
with
1st Vice
President Torrey
Brown. This was found acceptable to the Board
and
the switcheroo
took place. Torrey is now the president of the club to fulfill
the remainder of Jeff's term, which ends December 31, 2007. Hail
to the new chief!
In other news,
long time members may look back fondly on the '90s and remember
when the club printed
a quarterly
newsletter called, "Lines." Many may still have
copies of those old issues tucked away in a closet somewhere. For
the rest of us, there's now a link to all 18 back issues
of Lines in PDF format
located on the Home Page of the online version of CURRENTS.
Go to:
When you get
there, scroll down the page until you see the link. Click it for
a walk—or should I say slide—down memory lane.
Finally, I'm
sorry to disappoint followers of Travis Long's "Exploration France"
series who were expecting to see Part III
in this issue, however, you'll be able to read the thrilling conclusion
in the August issue. Stay tuned.