23RD
ANNUAL SANTA CRUZ LONGBOARD UNION Club rosters must be submitted no later than May 7th. That means that anyone interested in surfing one of the best waves on the California coast needs to contact Travis Long ASAP, or sooner if possible. Email: surfrat@ureach.com or call: 858-204-6417 or 858-405-9168. The contest takes place at Steamer Lane over Memorial Weekend, May 26-27. Here's what we have so far: Tandem: 1. Travis
Long / Halley Burd Legends: 1.
Bobby Challenger Thomas Grand Masters:
1. Ron Greene Masters: 1. Mathew
Melin Sr. Men: 1. Travis
Long Men: 1. Dave
Sams Sr. Women: 1.
Kathy Austin Women 20-29:
1. Open Jr. Women: 1.
Open Jr. Men: 1. Alex
Greene Menehunes: 1.
Nick Hastings These are the candidates for the paddle team: Travis Long, Alex Greene, Jane Mold, Dave Sams, Mathew Melin, and our anchor is going to be Nick Hastings. If you want to fill a spot, contact me ASAP. Travis
Long |
SURF BOOK AND FILM IN WORKS By Bobby
Challenger Thomas Goal: Finish
book. For more than 20 years, friends have encouraged me to write
a book about San Diego’s surfing history. Seven years
ago, I started getting serious and even published a press
release to that affect. I knew then I had made a serious
commitment
and now my publisher is saying, “fish or cut bait”.
In response to my press release I was contacted by an Emmy
Award winning documentary film producer who was interested
in doing a film based on the writing of the book. Now his
production company wants to finish the project and I’m
still shy of completing the book. The pressure is on and
I hope I can
rise to the occasion. It’s interesting how life has
a way of calling you out… otherwise its all BS. At right is an original 1890 photo of the surfboard and a Hawaiian family at their beach house going surfing with the Kahuna. Surf History Trivia Corner: Winner of last month's trivia question is Jerome Hall. Congrats Jerome, you have won a San Diego Surf Museum T-shirt. Answer: Charlie Wright…Charlie was also San Diego’s first Life Guard back in 1927. Win a Fin From My Collection of Designs New Trivia Question: Who then taught Charlie Wright how to surf…and who told him how to build a surfboard? Please send documented facts with your answer. Paddle Board Update: The board is shaping up real good. I wish the team was in as good of shape as the new board. Please help our club win this event. See you Sunday, 8am sharp, Tourmaline Surfing Park. Photos in this section are from Bobby Challenger Thomas' personal collection |
Shaping Tree: 1890 Design (photo at left) called
Alaia meaning “short
thin board for reef break.” With practice, I have no
doubt we could all ride this classic old surfboard. The design
and wood is over one hundred years
old. Not to mention how long it took the tree to grow! The
wood core of its day was hard and heavy and mostly shaped
with sharp rocks and shipbuilder craftsman’s draw knifes.
Shipbuilders were very skilled in their day and taught the
Hawaiians new shaping skills. In case you didn’t notice,
the design includes no fin—the board rider placing
a foot into the water like a rudder controlled the surfboard
direction. One would also wonder what kind of sticky material
they applied to the surface, if any. What skill it must have
taken to ride a 70 pound plus short board without a rudder
or fin and no wax…surfboards are slippery when wet!
P A R T_ I WORLD
TANDEM SURFING TOUR STAGE THREE By Travis Long Dear readers, the story you are about to read is true. No names were changed to protect the innocent or guilty. This story may contain adult subject matter and graphic nudity. Now that I have your attention, you must also understand that I am not a writer. As such, I don't expect a Pulitzer Prize anytime in the near future. Due to my writing experience, or lack thereof, my lurid tale will someshat follow a timeline and flow of conscienness. If I offend anyone, good. Getting Out of Town It all started about two months ago when I missed the second stage of the World Tandem Tour due to an unexpected back injury. There was no way I could do the Australian leg of the tour. I had been working six and seven days a week since October to finance that trip and now had to eat my ticket. As distasteful and frustrating as that was, I decided to try the third leg of the tour in Hossegor, France. What better reason to go to France I thought. So after a month of diet and recooperation, I was on my way. Unfortunately, my partner Halley Burd couldn't miss school, so I was going it alone in anticipation of finding a girl in France to surf with. A daunting task, I admit. I didn't care if I was able to find a girl or do the event for that matter, but one thing was clear, I needed a f____ing vacation.
With a four hour layover in Amsterdam, I decided to check into the airport sports bar to test the local flavors of beer. My favorite being Amstel Light, my order gets an unusual look from my bartender. Come to find out, Amstel Light is a non-alcoholic beer in Holland, and that just won't do after the flight I've just had. So I ordered the only other Dutch beer I knew, Heineken, and come to find out, it was just like me. Cheap. Airports are truly the greatest place to people watch. I just love trying to guess where people are from and what their lives must be like. My bartender was a pretty little gal who spoke impeccable English and smoked cigarrettes so fast you would have thought she was in a race. She'd pour a drink or two, then run into the back room to have a drag, never having to relight. I couldn't help but gather that the Dutch seemed like well dressed Germans who spoke good English, had manners and chain smoked. As I made this observation, the rather tranquil sports bar erupted into cheers for the home team on TV. What sport you ask? Curling. Yes, curling. Not the type that happens in the gym or beauty salon, but the type that involves ice, three people—two with brooms—and one with a large puck. People actually watch this shit I thought to myself. And cheer for it too? By now everyone in the place knew I was a tourist. Not just because of the beer mix-up, but also because I wasn't cheering the home team and I'm the only one in the place who's not smoking. |
So it was in
this spirit I boarded KLM Airlines flight 1315 to Minneapolis,
then on to Amsterdam and then to Bordeaux, France. The flight was
somewhat ordinary, thirteen hours of boredom, interrupted by brief
moments of stark terror. You know the kind, turbulence strikes
and in an instant jolt, you're awakened with the realization that
you're 30,000 feet in the air.
ACT OR REACT? IT'S YOUR CHOICE! By Jerome Lynn Hall Hawawa
ka he‘e nalu haki ka papa Summer is just around the corner and that means longer days, warmer water, smaller waves, and crowds. With schools letting out beginning next month, the number of folks in the water will increase exponentially, and they all want the same thing you do: lots of fun in a safe and friendly environment. Now is the time to stop and reflect on who you are and what it is that you love most about surfing. Think about what your presence in the lineup will mean to others. Choose to be an active surfer, not a reactive one! Here are eleven suggestions to make the summer of 2007 your best one yet: 1. Choose your location wisely, matching your ability and attitude. Know your limitations in the water. Don’t put yourself or those around you in peril. Remember: if you feel you’re in danger, you are! Never hesitate to ask for help if you find yourself in a threatening situation. 2. Respect traditions. Summer is travel season, and many of us will experience new breaks, often in foreign countries. Take time to study resident traditions both in and out of the water. 3. Be responsible. Remember: you’re riding a “missle” that has the potential to harm others. Therefore, it’s important to be accountable for your actions and equipment. If accidents occur, check first on the safety of the other surfer and then on their equipment. If you’re at fault, do the right thing: apologize. If equipment is damaged, offer to help pay for repairs. 4. Leave your credentials on the beach. Most surfers don’t care how good you are or how long you’ve been surfing. They simply want to have fun in a safe environment. Surf quietly! Don’t use your abilities to abuse others. If you’re fortunate enough to have social capital in the lineup, use it to build positive relationships. Remember: Ho a‘e ka ‘ike he‘e nalu i ka hokua o ka ‘ale. Demonstrate your surfing knowledge on the back of the wave! 5. Don’t “drop in” or “snake” a fellow surfer. The three “L’s” of surfing are “look,” “listen” and “learn.” Look carefully—especially toward the inside—when taking off on a wave. Listen to hear if anyone “calls the wave,” or shouts a warning to you. If they do, don’t take it personally. Learn from the experience. You’ll become a better surfer. 6. Take turns. When you paddle back out after a successful ride, why not give a wave to someone else? After all, you were fortunate enough to catch a ride and they were gracious enough to stay out of your way. 7. Look out for others. The waves may not be huge this time of year, but there are dangers, nonetheless, especially when there are crowds. Always aid another surfer in trouble. Next time, you may be the one calling for help! 8. Create a positive environment. Don’t wait to paddle out to be a positive influence. Start at home and carry that attitude with you to the beach. 9. Relax, have fun, and find enjoyment in your surfing, the environment, and your fellow surfers. 10. Respect the ocean, your fellow surfers, and most importantly, yourself. Others watch you. What will you show them? 11. Honor the Sport of Kings. In his recent book, Surfer’s Code, co-written with Patrick Moser, legendary surfer Shaun Tomson pledges to always honor the Sport of Kings. Let’s do the same. It’s a privilege to be able to surf. Be thankful for your opportunities to participate in and represent an honorable tradition. Let’s decide now—before the crowds arrive—how to act. If we don’t, we’ll find ourselves reacting to just about every situation. That rarely, if ever, has a positive outcome. We have choices this summer. Let’s choose aloha! |
Hi All, We had a warm vacation to the Central Pacific area of Costa Rica on March 21 to 31 2007. It is a beautiful country with uncrowded waves everywhere, wild animals, many kind of fish and especially good food. Temperature was about 85¾ and water in the mid 80’s was perfect for the “Endless Summer” kind of feeling surfing! We stayed at the Best Western, Jaco Beach Hotel. It was Dennis’ filth time there since 1992. The hotel staff is very nice and friendly. Now, we have good friends there who are life guards, Marvin and Adrian, and the Christian bell man, Yorchua. We also met a fabulous family, the Araya’s from San Jose.
We enjoyed surfing consistent small to medium waves, snorkeling at a semi-private nature reserve, and found new surf spots and towns. On the last full day, after surfing, Yorchua the bell man showed us some real estate at Playa Agujas and his town which is good because we could see people living in the small peaceful town. If you go there be careful in rural beach areas like Esterillos as there are many theives. We will absolutely be back to Costa Rica for the nice warm weather, surfing and good friends. Thanks to our friends there. Pura Vida! Dennis and Mako Ogden
All photos in this section courtesy of the Ogdens. |
Adrian showed
us a new white sand beach preserve, 10 miles north, at Punta Leona
where we went snorkeling and saw lots of fish.
There were
Scarlet Macaws and
spider monkey in trees near the Beach.
SKIN CANCER: A SURFER'S SILENT ENEMY By Dr. Derek Lodico So a few months back we talked about sunscreen and sunblock and the myth’s and truth’s that surround the industry. So the big question is why do we wear it? Yes burning of the skin like any burn is uncomfortable. So in the immediate future sunscreen is good because if applied properly it prevents you from feeling like you are on fire. But what is more likely to kill us, a sunburn or cancer. So it doesn’t take much of a brain these days to understand that the sun causes skin cancer just as common sense as smoking causing all types of different cancers. So the common question or comment I hear from the crew at the beach is “I don’t have to worry about that stuff till I’m older, right?” Wrong. Skin cancer is the most common of all human cancers. Some form of skin cancer is diagnosed in more than 1 million people in the United States each year. Skin cancers are of 3 major types: basal cell carcinoma (BCC), squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), and melanoma. Basal cell carcinomas and squamous cell carcinomas are more common in older people. Melanomas are more common in younger people. For example, melanoma is the most common cancer in people aged 25-29 years. So ok, now I know what is out there and that lots of people get this stuff, but how do I know I am at risk? Well first if you surf on a regular basis I will just throw the blanket statement out there that you are at risk regardless of your added dangers listed below. The following people are at the greatest risk: • People with fair skin, especially types that freckle, sunburn easily, or become painful in the sun. • People with light (blond or red) hair and blue or green eyes. • Those with certain genetic disorders that deplete skin pigment—Albinism, xeroderma pigmentosum. • People who have already been treated for skin cancer. • People with numerous moles, unusual moles, or large moles that were present at birth. • People with close family members who have developed skin cancer. • People who had at least 1 severe sunburn early in life Yes, I get lost with lots of words as well, and studies have shown that you are probably only going to remember about 15% of what I am telling you. I also believe that pic’s speak louder than words. So lets start with the one that will kill you if not identified and treated early. Mr. melanoma. Melanoma is a very misunderstood beast. People hear that it is an easily treatable skin cancer. It is if caught early. The thing that people don’t know is that as soon as it invades below the most superficial portions of the skin (going from shallow water to the deep end) it goes everywhere in the body and grows like weeds. I personally have taken care of two people in their 20’s in my short time as a doctor that I watched get literally eaten alive by melanoma. Not a good way to go. “So how do I spot it Dr. scary story guy?” |
May 2: PB Surf Club meeting, 6:00 p.m., PB Recreation Center, 1405 Diamond Street, Pacific Beach. Continued planning for the club's Late Summer Classic and getting team riders organized for the Memorial Day Classic up in Santa Cruz. Note to all team riders: if you're planning to surf the Santa Cruz contest, be at this meeting to get all the information you'll need from Team Captain, Travis Long. |
 |
May 26-27: Memorial Day Classic; Santa Cruz Longboard Union; Steamer Lane. Aug 4-5: Call to the Wall; Malibu Boardriders Club; Malibu Sep 8-9: Malibu Surfing Association Classic; Malibu Oct 20-21: Swami's Surfing Association Contest; Location to be decided |
This month's lead photo courtesy of Travis Long.
For more, visit the PB Surf Club website at: http://www.pbsurfclub.org
Copyright
© 2007, Pacific Beach Surf Club, San Diego, California
Editor & Designer: Richard Steadham
Got news? Send it to rlsteadham@mac.com
