Our local surfing
community was honored on March 22nd and 23rd to have an evening
program, followed by a moring surf session,
with one
of the sport's
true ambassadors
of grace and style, the legendary Paul Strauch, Jr.
The evening presentation
took place at Manchester Executive Conference Center on the Campus
of the University of San Diego, and was part of Professor Jerome Lynn
Hall's Surf Culture Lecture Series. In Professor Hall's introductory
remarks,
he stated there were no secret spots anymore, as all lineups were becoming
more and more crowded each year, while the sport
of surfing continued to expand in popularity. How we conduct ourselves
in the water under these circumstances then—for better or ill—would
determine the satisfaction we receive from the sport each time
we paddle
out. Rather than aggressive confrontation, he suggested a positive
attitude in the spirit of aloha the
best path to follow, exemplified by the evening's speaker. He
then turned the podium over to Mr. Strauch, who was warmly received
by those in attendance.
Mr. Strauch began
by recalling his childhood in Hawaii. Half-Hawaiian and
half-European by heritage, he was raised in Hawaiian ways. Aloha,
meaning "in the presence of life," was the philosophy which guided
his life. The spirit of nature was always to be honored and could
take place in ways such as asking permission of the spirit of the
ocean before entering
it. A warm and gentle wind on the cheek meant "yes", a sharp
wind "no". He learned there was a hierarchy to respect in the water
and one had to earn their right to be there.
He recalled how
in the 1940s and 50s, Waikiki was the Mecca for surfing and it
was there that he himself learned to surf, first on his father's
redwood
plank, and before long, on his own eight foot hollow board.
Bob Shepard made his
third board, which was a ten foot, four inch balsa wood design.
Mr. Strauch's father, Paul Sr., had many influential friends in
the surfing world at the time which included the before-mentioned
Mr. Shepard, George Downing, Tom Blake, and of course Paoa Kahanamoku,
the Duke,
among others. All these would play an important roll in his development
and have an impact in one way or another on his life. Mr. Strauch
is currently working on a documentary
film
of
the Duke
and we were priviledged
to preview a segment of it that evening.
Chosen by the
Duke for his Hawaiian surf team were: Paul Strauch, Jr., Joey
Cabell, Fred Hemmings and Butch van Artsdalen. These men all went
on the become
famous in their own right in the world of surfing and each embodied
the spirit of aloha their mentor promoted. The Duke was
so nonjudgemental of others we learned, that while attending a
surf contest at Huntington Beach one year, he wouldn't even condem
a
contestant,
who upon learning had only placed third in the finals, took his
trophy over to the edge of the stage and threw it into the trash
with
disgust.
When Mr. Strauch looked at the Duke for his reaction to this inglorious
outburst, he praised the contestant for his determination to
win rather than condemn him for his recent behavior. At first,
Mr. Strauch
was taken aback at the Duke's statement, but after contemplating
it for awhile, said it was the best lesson he ever learned from
him: find the
positive in all things.
After relaying
several more interesting anecdotes regarding his years traveling
with the Duke, the program ended with a few questions from the
audience.
The one which brought an enthusiastic response was from Glenn Paculba
when he asked if he would do the "Strauch Crouch."
He chuckled for a moment at the thought and said he would do it
the following morning at Tourmaline for all who were interested
in joining him there for a surf session with the PB Surf Club.
The Friday
Morning Surf Session
The following
morning, about 25 people consisting of a group of club members,
students from Professor Hall's class and
several others in the local surf community, gathered at Tourmaline
Surfing
Park
to do
what we surfers do best:
SURF! It was a beautiful sunny morning with only remnants of puffy
white clouds left over from the previous night's
thunder storm. Throwing caution to the wind (not to surf until
72 hours after a rainstorm!), we all donned our wetsuits and paddled
out into the playful-sized surf offered up that morning. The water
temp was warm (considering it was mid-March) and the
aloha spirit everywhere
as we
all enjoyed
a
day of playing
hookey from school and work for the opportunity to surf with a
legendary icon here at our own local break.
The
club put up a tent, unfurled the banner and offered free donuts
and fruit
to all who showed up. Special thanks goes to Dawn Moore who organized
the event, and proved once again what a tireless worker she is
in pulling these things together. She was aided this time around
by Sandi Pierz, who spread the event flyers in shops far and wide
and brought
some
of the goodies to eat that morning.
Joining us for
the session was local legend, Skip Frye. It was a rare treat to
see Paul and Skip in the lineup together talking surf stories,
then catching waves, each going a different way. I paddled
up and asked
them at one point, "as the club's newsletter editor, could
I get the two of you
on
record expressing your views on anything regarding surfing?" They
just looked at me and smiled, then took off on a wave, probably
relieved
to
get
away from a pesky reporter. For my part, I had to at least ask!
By
eleven in the morning, the fun was over as the surf became
more and
more inconsistent. We thanked our guest for coming down to
share his personal experience—and our local waves—with
us.
Thanks
again Mr. Strauch for being the "Gentleman Surfer" you
are. We
can all learn a thing or two from your positive example.
Hello dudes and
dudettes. It's time once again to inform you all of our next upcoming
contest. I'm happy to announce the Santa Cruz Longboard Union will
be holding their annual longboard club invitational. For those
of you who are not familiar with this event, it will be held on
Memorial Weekend
on Santa Cruz's west side at the infamous Steamer Lane. Now if
you've never surfed The Lane, well then you are in for quite a
treat. Steamer Lane is a consistent right point break that breaks
from one foot to thirty foot plus. It can handle any size swell,
and picks up nearly all swell directions. What's more, you will
be surfing it with only five other people out. Epic.
Fellow team
member, David Sams, formerly of Pacific Beach, now lives on the
west side, three blocks from the Lane. David now works in Cupertino
for Apple I-tunes, and has been gracious enough to offer to let
the team and their families camp out at his house, which is situated
across the street from the beach. He's told us he has ample off-street
parking, and a huge back yard for tents. You can park for the weekend
and simply walk to the comp from there. What more do you want,
a board caddy?
This event is
the first major comp of the summer season, and It's important that
PBSC make a good showing. This event also has a paddleboard race
on Sunday morning. The points for the paddle race, which is a 5-man
and 1- woman relay sprint, is worth nearly one third of the teams
overall points. Bobby Challenger has been nice enough to design
and shape PBSC's new paddle craft for this event. Keep in mind
that he has
spent much time and gone to considerable expense to fabricate this
work of art so be sure to thank him accordingly.
So here's the
deal: if you are interested in joining us, please contact
me ASAP. Keep in mind that you must be paid up
on your membership dues, AND past contests to participate. For
his generosity, I'd
like to thank David by paying this
year's dues for him personally. I'll also approach the
Board members to ensure that his contest entry fees are taken
care of as well.
To give
you an idea of how we did last year, we came in 12th out of 19
teams with only five surfers, one tandem team, and no paddle team.
Let's improve on that. So get your shit together and lets go kick
some ass.
Paddlers: where
are you? Maybe you missed the first call for tryouts on Sunday, March
25th. This call will be every Sunday until the contest. Did you know
that almost 1/3 of the club's overall points at a surf meet come
from the paddle race? This has been an area over the years
which has shown very little strength in the club. WHY? Maybe you
didn't have a special board to motivate you to paddle. Well, I'm
shaping one for the club now, (actually two) to be used at the Memorial
Day Classic contest held at Steamer
Lane in Santa Cruz, May 26-27. This is one of the oldest events
in modern longboarding. A really big surf and party. Luau awards
show
is great.
Here is the rough
outer plan shape of the paddle surfboard. It must meet the 47 inch
rule that the club coalition of contest requests.
No cheating. The design must be of a surfboard not a paddleboard.
Learn more in the next newsletter.
Please join the Paddle Team sessions on Sundays and earn points
towards a specially-designed Paddle Team T-shirt (see the "Upcoming
Events section below for time and location of classes). Your CLUB
needs you to rise to the Occasion! Get into shape like the board
I am shaping for
you.
You know I can teach you all the
paddling techniques to win. I can design and build the fastest
board on the water. Then the team needs you to paddle this machine
and
tell me if is fast, really fast. You can win the paddle race. Practice,
practice, train and win.
A picture is a thousands words. Here is just a few. Have you or
do you have that special photo of you riding the Lane. I am lucky;
I have many special memories over my fifty years of surfing. This
event is one of them. The photo below, forty years later riding
a 1997 Santa Cruz Model 2+1 speed machine. What a wild ride. I
have it in a four sequence
shot thru the boiling zone taken by Jim Pidgeon. I hope John Slavin
will be at this special
event and capture your winning memories. Thanks for the photo memories
John.
Riding Streamer
Lane, Santa Cruz, and the boiling pots and the inside reef takes
practice and training. You need to get in shape to ride this
very special wave and be a part of this gathering. People come
as far
away as Japan to ride this wave with just a few in the water.
It is the cold water classic of longboarding and the paddle
team race is an integral part of the event. If
you are planning on going, contact Team Captain Travis Long about
lodging in the
area.
Memories: I first
rode Santa Cruz back in 1966. In 1967 I designed my first Challenger
Santa Cruz Model then advertised
the new
design in SURFER Magazine with a photo of top area surfer
Mark Angel riding
Streamer Lane on a large day.
Join the committee
for the SAN DIEGO SURF MUSEUM MODEL for the Club’s
Summer Long board Classic. Be a part of those concerned
with the founding history whose
mission is preserving and educating the San Diego Surfing
community about our lifestyle, sport and industry. Call
me at 619-559-2244.
WIN A SAN DIEGO
SURF MUSEUM T-SHIRT
Trivia Question: Who was the first documented (published
newspaper story) surfer to christen the City of San Diego
beaches and
ocean with riding a surfboard? Please provide source of
information.
SURFER
ATTACKED OFF LA JOLLA
By Glenn
Paculba
On Saturday,
February 3, 2007, three days after a cold winter rainstorm, the
skies were
blue and the air warm. The ocean water temperature
was a cold 56 degrees. The water seemed clear – a sign that
the ocean was recovering from the pollution that normally follows
a storm. I went surfing in the morning with my friend, Roopal, an
attorney, and her friend, Dave, a good surfer who is the manager
of a rock band. I had surfed PB Point the previous day but decided
to surf with them at a spot 200 yards north of the point named Haniman’s.
After
putting on my wetsuit I was the first one down the cliff to the
pebble beach where I was approached by a woman in a red sweater
who seemed very distressed.
She said to me, “Excuse me, sir, would you mind paddling out…….
(she pointed to a spot in the water about 125 yards out between Haniman’s
and the next break north called Sewer Lines) and saving that……” I
squinted and saw some splashing and movement. I thought she said “seagull” and
I replied, “Sure.” Then I looked at her and said, “Arlene,
it’s me, Glenn.” She was so distraught that she didn’t
recognize me. She excitedly said, “Oh my God, Glenn, I’m so glad
it’s
you - would you do it?” I assured her that it wouldn’t be a problem.
So
I paddled out thinking I was going to be the “seagull rescuer” today.
As I got closer I could see that the animal was larger than I expected
and that its girth and neck were huge. It couldn’t be a seagull.
It looked like a baby seal because it had fur and was a brownish color.
“To
see Duke coming in at Waikiki on his
long
olo board was to see surfing at its best.
Somehow, to me, the
Duke is the last
of the
Great Hawaiians, the man by which to
measure the
race, the surfrider by which to
measure the surfriders of all time.”
Tom
Blake, Hawaiian
Surfriders, 1935
Tom was eighteen
years old and just out of Washburn High School in Wisconsin
when he went to a Detroit movie theater to watch
newsreel pictures from the recent Olympics.
The year
was 1920. A young Hawaiian swimmer by the name of Duke Paoa
Kahanamoku
had taken the world by storm eight years earlier
at the Stockholm Olympics when he won the 100-meter free-style
swimming event. This year he had done it again at Antwerp and
Americans didn’t want to miss the chance to see the victory
highlighted on the screen in their local theater. Tom was no
exception.
When the
show ended, a young Tom Blake walked mesmerized out of the
theater and into history. There, in the cinema lobby
stood the star of the evening, Duke Kahanamoku. Duke, it
seems, was
traveling home from his Olympic victory along with his Hawaiian
team mates, all of whom decided to leave their hotel room
that evening and catch the newsreel.
It’s
difficult to assess the impact that this single evening had
on the sport
of surfing. When asked if he would shake Tom’s
hand there in the theater lobby, Duke replied, “Sure!” As
Blake tells it, Duke “held out to me his big soft
paw of a hand, and gave me a firm, hearty handshake. It
made
a lasting
impression. I felt that somehow he had included an invitation
to me to come over to his own Hawaiian Islands.”
You
know the rest of the story. Blake moved from Wisconsin
to California and took up swimming and life guarding,
eventually becoming a renowned competitive swimmer himself.
Later
he journeyed to Hawaii and settled down, where he was
accepted into Duke’s
inner circle, his ohana (family). His many accomplishments
would include the invention of the torpedo buoy and the
rescue ring,
both lifesaving devices; the hollow surf and paddle boards,
as well as the sailboard; the underwater camera housing;
and a
small keel-like projection for the bottom of the surf
board that today we refer to simply as a fin.
Our lives,
it seems, are not so much defined by years,
but by moments. What if Tom had decided not to attend
the film
that
evening? What if Duke – for whatever reason – had
neglected to shake the outstretched hand in the lobby
of that Detroit movie theater? Imagine the impact that
those few moments
had on the future of swimming, lifesaving, and surfing!
Sometimes,
the simple act of “being there” may change
your life, or the lives of those around you. Think
of moments, not years. Show up. Become involved. Offer
a hand. Say, “Sure!” Be
a positive presence. Spread aloha.
Did you catch
the benefit for Wildcoast at
the Aubergine club downtown last month? If so, you not only helped
raise money for an important local environmental organization,
but saw Josh Hall along with some of his surfboard designs in a
cool, gallery-style setting. Also there was Shay Vision and his
visionary paintings, and the creators of the contemporary clothing
line
known as "Essentials" along with some of their line. The proceeds went
to Wildcoast's Clean Water Now Project, something we can all get
behind.
Please welcome
new members Marieke Thayer and Joey Eves into
the club. Be
sure to show them the PBSC aloha spirit when you see him
at future club
meetings and events.
Apr
4: PB Surf
Club meeting, 6:30 p.m., PB Recreation Center, 1405 Diamond Street,
Pacific Beach. Planning for the club's Summer Longboard Classic
will get underway, so if you want to get on a committee and get
involved, be there.
Apr
1, 8, 15, 22, and 29: Paddle Team Workout Sessions
with Bobby Challenger Thomas. Meet
at 8:00 a.m., at the end of Loring Street in front of the Pumphouse.
You can park in the Tourmaline parking lot.