THE "GENTLEMAN
SURFER" PAYS A VISIT
By Richard Steadham
Our local surfing
community was honored on March 22nd and 23rd to have an evening
program, followed by a moring surf session,
with one
of the sport's
true ambassadors
of grace and style, the legendary Paul Strauch, Jr.
The evening presentation
took place at Manchester Executive Conference Center on the Campus
of the University of San Diego, and was part of Professor Jerome Lynn
Hall's Surf Culture Lecture Series. In Professor Hall's introductory
remarks,
he stated there were no secret spots anymore, as all lineups were becoming
more and more crowded each year, while the sport
of surfing continued to expand in popularity. How we conduct ourselves
in the water under these circumstances then—for better or ill—would
determine the satisfaction we receive from the sport each time
we paddle
out. Rather than aggressive confrontation, he suggested a positive
attitude in the spirit of aloha the
best path to follow, exemplified by the evening's speaker. He
then turned the podium over to Mr. Strauch, who was warmly received
by those in attendance.
Mr. Strauch began
by recalling his childhood in Hawaii. Half-Hawaiian and
half-European by heritage, he was raised in Hawaiian ways. Aloha,
meaning "in the presence of life," was the philosophy which guided
his life. The spirit of nature was always to be honored and could
take place in ways such as asking permission of the spirit of the
ocean before entering
it. A warm and gentle wind on the cheek meant "yes", a sharp
wind "no". He learned there was a hierarchy to respect in the water
and one had to earn their right to be there.
He recalled how
in the 1940s and 50s, Waikiki was the Mecca for surfing and it
was there that he himself learned to surf, first on his father's
redwood
plank, and before long, on his own eight foot hollow board.
Bob Shepard made his
third board, which was a ten foot, four inch balsa wood design.
Mr. Strauch's father, Paul Sr., had many influential friends in
the surfing world at the time which included the before-mentioned
Mr. Shepard, George Downing, Tom Blake, and of course Paoa Kahanamoku,
the Duke,
among others. All these would play an important roll in his development
and have an impact in one way or another on his life. Mr. Strauch
is currently working on a documentary
film
of
the Duke
and we were priviledged
to preview a segment of it that evening.
Chosen by the
Duke for his Hawaiian surf team were: Paul Strauch, Jr., Joey
Cabell, Fred Hemmings and Butch van Artsdalen. These men all went
on the become
famous in their own right in the world of surfing and each embodied
the spirit of aloha their mentor promoted. The Duke was
so nonjudgemental of others we learned, that while attending a
surf contest at Huntington Beach one year, he wouldn't even condem
a
contestant,
who upon learning had only placed third in the finals, took his
trophy over to the edge of the stage and threw it into the trash
with
disgust.
When Mr. Strauch looked at the Duke for his reaction to this inglorious
outburst, he praised the contestant for his determination to
win rather than condemn him for his recent behavior. At first,
Mr. Strauch
was taken aback at the Duke's statement, but after contemplating
it for awhile, said it was the best lesson he ever learned from
him: find the
positive in all things.
After relaying
several more interesting anecdotes regarding his years traveling
with the Duke, the program ended with a few questions from the
audience.
The one which brought an enthusiastic response was from Glenn Paculba
when he asked if he would do the "Strauch Crouch."
He chuckled for a moment at the thought and said he would do it
the following morning at Tourmaline for all who were interested
in joining him there for a surf session with the PB Surf Club.
The Friday
Morning Surf Session
The following
morning, about 25 people consisting of a group of club members,
students from Professor Hall's class and
several others in the local surf community, gathered at Tourmaline
Surfing
Park
to do
what we surfers do best:
SURF! It was a beautiful sunny morning with only remnants of puffy
white clouds left over from the previous night's
thunder storm. Throwing caution to the wind (not to surf until
72 hours after a rainstorm!), we all donned our wetsuits and paddled
out into the playful-sized surf offered up that morning. The water
temp was warm (considering it was mid-March) and the
aloha spirit everywhere
as we
all enjoyed
a
day of playing
hookey from school and work for the opportunity to surf with a
legendary icon here at our own local break.
The
club put up a tent, unfurled the banner and offered free donuts
and fruit
to all who showed up. Special thanks goes to Dawn Moore who organized
the event, and proved once again what a tireless worker she is
in pulling these things together. She was aided this time around
by Sandi Pierz, who spread the event flyers in shops far and wide
and brought
some
of the goodies to eat that morning.
Joining us for
the session was local legend, Skip Frye. It was a rare treat to
see Paul and Skip in the lineup together talking surf stories,
then catching waves, each going a different way. I paddled
up and asked
them at one point, "as the club's newsletter editor, could
I get the two of you
on
record expressing your views on anything regarding surfing?" They
just looked at me and smiled, then took off on a wave, probably
relieved
to
get
away from a pesky reporter. For my part, I had to at least ask!
By
eleven in the morning, the fun was over as the surf became
more and
more inconsistent. We thanked our guest for coming down to
share his personal experience—and our local waves—with
us.
Thanks
again Mr. Strauch for being the "Gentleman Surfer" you
are. We
can all learn a thing or two from your positive example.
Click
here for a "Surf With Strauch" Photo Album

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