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CURRENT'S
MONTHLY CONTENT BROADENS
My constant cajoling
for more contributors to this publication has finally paid dividends—and
in a big way. Beginning with this issue, two monthly columnists
will join the team to help cover a broader range of issues
concerning surfers and the sport of surfing. A third columnist
will continue contributing on an occasional basis as he finds time
in his busy schedule to do so.
Jerome
Lynn Hall will be writing about surf culture
in his "Aloha Corner" column. He
is, by trade, an underwater archaeologist and teaches at the University
of San
Diego.
Ongoing projects of his include the
Monte Cristi Shipwreck, a 17-century northern European merchant
vessel in Monte Cristi Bay, Dominican Republic; and the 1st-century
Kinneret Boat, a vessel extracted from the Sea of Galilee, in Israel.
Formerly, Jerome was the underwater archaeologist for Puerto Rico
and President of the Institute of Nautical Archaeology, with headquarters
at Texas A&M University, Bodrum, Turkey, and Alexandria, Egypt.
Jerome's
first column below is entitled, "The Limits of My Language Are
the Limits of My World." Kathy
Austin will be covering surfing from the
womens' perspective in her "Women's Forum" column. She doesn't
really need any introduction to this group as she is the immediate
past president of the club. Her monthly "President's Message" gave
her voice at the beginning of each issue last year. Professionally
she is a loan officer for Signature Funding in San Diego.
Kathy's first
column in this new category below is entitled, "How Do
Women Surfers Differ From Men Surfers?"
Dr.
Derek Lodico will
continue providing his "Health Corner" columns
as he finds time to do them. He is a Lieutenant, U.S. Navy Physician,
at the Naval Hospital at Camp Pendleton "Serving those Who Serve."
He's been accepted and will start Navy Dive School for Medical
Officers in January of 2008 in Connecticut/Panama City, Florida,
and hopes to eventually be assigned to the Navy Seals in San Diego.
His influences in the water are (time order): Gary Murphy, Spinner,
Erok, Barney, Shaun, Dan and Quint. Influences out of the water:
Wife, Devon, Gavin and Star. His advice: "You are never too busy
to help out, guaranteed someone once said the same about you.
Obstacles are the things we see when we take our eyes off our goals.
No voice
is too small, it's not speaking up that breaks the circle. You
always can find time to surf." Originally
from Tucson, Arizona, he's resided in Pacific Beach for the
past 14 years.
His next
column, "Skin Cancer and the Surfer," will appear
next month.
Also in this
issue, Dawn Moore appears for the
first time with a great article about the club's recent
event in support of
our fellow surfer, Ocean
Allie. It
follows immediately below. Enjoy.
Richard Steadham
Editor |
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SURF COMMUNITY RALLIES FOR ONE OF THEIR OWN
By Dawn Moore
Mahalo everyone
for your generosity and support at the expression session the
weekend of January 20 for
Allie. Allie is so touched by our love, and
she said to tell everyone thank you! It is truly wonderful to
see our community, friends and family of Allie’s all come
together for a common cause; helping to raise money for our friend.
We are truly
blessed. I’m not sure exactly whose idea it was, but before
you could blink, Allie’s friends had raised enough money
to pay for a week’s stay at the cottages on the pier. My
family and I
attended a PB Surf Club meeting at the VFW to discuss heat times
for the upcoming weekend’s Gathering of the Tribes contest
at Church's, and the next thing I know; we were involved putting
together an Expression
Session for our pal, Ocean Allie so we could pay for another
weeks’ stay
for her on the pier.
In
less than 10 days, we put on a fabulous event! It was extremely
intense pulling
all
of the details together, and I would like to
take a moment to thank the people who made themselves available to
me (pretty much 24/7) before and after the event: Kathy Austin and
Jeff Hackert for their experience and ideas, (and taking my calls
for
hours on end), Derek Lodico who works tirelessly. Honestly, I don’t
know how you do it Derek. Amidst being a doctor on call pulling 30
to 40 hours straight and raising a family, Derek still finds time
to organize details, runs around collecting money, visits Allie,
prints flyers, works with Make a Wish Foundation, puts together a
slide show, and talked to me on the phone several times a day.
Andrea
Holeman, one of Allie’s dear friends, was instrumental
in this event as well. She has a wealth of resources. Andrea not
only donated over $800 in raffle items, she hooked me up with Surfshot.
Surfshot placed our story and flyer on their home page for a
week straight. Celia Treamer was a wonderful sounding board, and
helped
me to stay organized. Celia and I were constantly meeting over
the phone or in the coffee shop to discuss what was accomplished,
and what still needed to be done. Celia, Shannon Shackleton and
I met Friday night to organize all of the raffle items, and write
up the heat sheets. Other people who were essential to this project,
without whom the event would not have been possible include: John
Slavin, Chris Abbott, Glen Paculba, Pablo Smith, Tom Davis, Masi
Saili, Patrick O’Connor, Travis Long, Ida and Siaosi Veimau,
Adam Calvo and Rodney. Celia wanted to say a special thanks to
Rodney for catching the fish, cleaning the fish, cooking the fish
and even yelling at the fish. ALOHA & MAHALO!!!
Since time was
not on our side, it was important to reach as many people as possible.
Especially since it’s wintertime, and there’s
no guarantee that the weather or the waves would cooperate. I
designed a flyer and composed a story line for distribution.
After Andrea and I
talked about Surfshot, she and I went to work. Andrea called
Surfshot, Longboard Magazine & Channel 8, and I
contacted every surf club between here and Santa Barbara. Immediately,
Swami’s,
SDSL and Sunset
Cliffs came to our aid. Coronado also sent out an email to their
members asking for participation. Then I contacted swellcheck.com,
surfinside.com, surfline.com, surfingsandiego.com, surfingList.com.
All of these sites posted our story and flyer.
Story continues by clicking this link |
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THE
LIMITS OF MY LANGUAGE
ARE THE LIMITS OF MY WORLD
By Jerome
Lynn Hall
“ In
Hawai`i we greet friends, loved ones or strangers with Aloha,
which means with love. Aloha is the key word to the
universal spirit of real hospitality, which makes Hawai`i renowned
as the
world’s center of understanding and fellowship. Try meeting
or leaving people with Aloha. You’ll be surprised
by the reaction. I believe it and it is my creed. Aloha to
you.”
Creed
of Aloha, by Duke Paoa Kahanamoku
It is only fitting
that a column on surf culture and history should begin with Duke
Paoa Kahanamoku. For many, if not most, of us “the Duke”—or
Paoa, as he preferred his friends call him—still symbolizes
everything that is pure and good about surfing. His Creed of
Aloha governed the way that he interacted with friends and strangers
alike, and remains the example for us to follow.
Say it. Say, “aloha.”
Now, say it again,
but this time exhale gently when you enunciate “haaaa.” More
than just a traditional Hawaiian salutation, aloha has many meanings:
as a verb, it is desiring, or regarding with affection; to venerate
or to love. As a noun it connotes, among other things, mercy or
compassion. Anecdotal data suggest that—when deconstructed
to its component parts (“alo,” presence, or the front,
or face, and “hâ,” to breathe or exhale)—it
signifies that breath of life that passes from one to another upon
greeting, in its own way a recognition and invocation of the divine.
The first settlers
of the Hawaiian Islands arrived in outrigger canoes, most likely
from the Marquesas Group sometime between 300 and 900 A.D. They
brought with them a myriad of tangible and intangible resources:
plants and animals, gods and ceremonies, customs, practices, and
language. But because culture—those norms, values, and beliefs
that are shared within a group and passed from generation to generation—is
dynamic and adaptive, it doesn’t take long for a distinctively
regional ethos to emerge. So it was with`Olelo Hawai`i, the Hawaiian
language, that source of aloha which finds its grammatical and
phonological foundations in the closely related tongues of the
Samoans, Maoris, Tahitians, and Marquesans, all of whom are members
of the Austronesian language family.
When we study aloha in our Surf Culture and History class at the University
of San Diego, it is with a somewhat different, perhaps unconventional, perspective.
Aloha, I tell students, is respect born from reverence, a sacred regard for
the elder. And “elder,” by our definition, is anything that was
here before you: the ocean, all creatures in it, the waves, the beach, and
the gift and the tradition of surfing; yes, even “you” are older
than you, for embodied within each of us is the biological dream of thousands
of generations. So, aloha, that simple greeting of grace and affection, exhaled
by one and breathed in by another, finds its source in self respect and emanates
outwardly.
In an age when
patience, kindness, and ethical behavior are in seemingly short
supply, when everywhere from the corporate boardroom to the favorite
point break the notion of entitlement rules the day, it is the
aloha spirit—that deeply-centered respect for self and others—that
offers hope to those of us intent on making the beach, the community,
and the world better places in which to live and play.
“ The limits
of my language means the limits of my world,” said Austrian
philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein.
Think about aloha.
Wrap your mind around it; behold how swiftly your heart and body
follow. Marvel at how wonderfully your world changes. |
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COALITION
CLUBS GATHER, SURF, CELEBRATE
By Richard Steadham
The Doheny Club's
annual "Gathering of the Tribes" contest took place on January 6 and
7 of this new year at Church's (one of the breaks at Trestles).
It saw our club finish in a very respectable
third
place out of a total of 17 clubs. Taking second was the Malibu
Surfing
Association and winding up on top of the heap was Doheny (no surprise
there; the host club almost always wins their own contest).
The NW swell
which had arrived in Southern California on Friday, still had some
punch left for Saturday's first round heats. Set waves were topping
out about chest high, but had wind on them for most of the
day, increasing steadily as the day wore on. Sunday's advancing
rounds saw flipped conditions however with beautiful glassy waves
all day, but with a noticable decrease in size. Knee to waist high
waves dominated the sets for Sunday's action.
Quintin
Macklin surfing circles around the competition
continued his winning ways by taking first place in the Men's
Shortboard Final. He also finished
fifth in the Men's Final (all heats are longboard unless specifically
noted as shortboard). His trophy case must be busting at the
seams at this point in
his
career.
Thanks
for
being one
of us Quintin! Your talent is amazing.
Two of our team
riders really stood out this time: Ron Greene and Bobby
Challenger Thomas. Both men won first place in all of
their respective heats, but came up just a little short in their
finals. Ron finished
second
in the
Grand Masters while Bobby managed fourth in the Legends. Congratulations
guys. For most of the afternoon on Saturday, Bobby kept complaining
how unfair it was to the older guys in his division (ages 60-70
years old) that they had to
surf all their heats on the same day. By the time the Legends'
Final came around though, Bobby went out like a trooper and gave
it his best with a tank
that read almost empty. Thanks for hanging in there Bobby. The
club appreciates your stamina and grit.
Also making it
to the finals and receiving trophies were: Travis Long and Halley
Burd earning third place in the Tandem Final; Debra
Hoyt taking
fourth in the Women's Final and sixth in the Jr. Women's
Shortboard
Final; Derek
Lodico placing
sixth in the Sr. Men's Final; and Kathy Austin coming
in sixth in the Women's Shortboard Final. Congrats to you all!
Nick
Hastings surfed to a second place in the
Boy's First Heat on Saturday, but managed only fourth in the
Semi-Finals on Sunday.
Alex
Greene received
third in the Jr. Men's First Heat, finishing fourth
in the Quarter Finals on Sunday.
Bob Greene took
first place in his Legends' Heat, second place in the Quarter Finals,
but was edged out in the Legends' Repocharge with fourth place.
All of his heats were on Saturday. As Maxwell Smart
would have said, "Missed it by that much." Eleven, count
'em, eleven of our riders received a
fourth place showing
in their respective first rounds and thus just missed advancing: Patrick
O' Connor in the Boy's; Harley Tesche in
the Girl's; Nick
D'Rov in the Jr. Men's; Josh Hall in
the Men's; Travis
Long and Jim Cameron in
the Sr. Men's; Jeff
Hackert in the Masters; Jane Mold and Jackie
De Rieux in the Women's Shortboard; Mason De Rieux in
the Men's Shortboard; and Celia Treamer in the
Master Women's.
Other team
riders making us proud, but unable to advance
out of the First Round were: Max Ullman taking
fifth in the Jr. Men's; Mikela
Saili coming
in fifth in the Girl's; Masi Saili (Mikela's
father) taking fifth in
the Masters; Kathy Austin and Jane Mold both
fifth in the Master Women's; Keri Endich sixth
in the Women's Shortboard and Richard
Steadham sixth in the Grand Masters.
Next year PBSC
is shooting for first place at the "Gathering."
Doheny, you better start looking over your collective shoulders.

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HOW DO WOMEN
SURFERS
DIFFER
FROM MEN SURFERS?
By Kathy Austin
I e-mailed this
question to the women of PBSC.
It’s worth
mentioning that ours is an articulate and diverse group, not to
mention, made up of some very
good surfers. The
responses stated the obvious physiological differences in strength and
gravity centers and then basic dispositions, women being more
social, and an interesting
theme bubbled up.
As women surfers,
we are not as different from men surfers as we are from women who
don’t surf. The theme was how much we enjoy
our surfing girlfriends. When girls paddle out there’s always laughter
and a waft of floral scent from shampoo or lotion. We women have a need
to connect
and only another woman who surfs understands what we love so dearly.
Is there anything better than paddling out with your girls or spotting
one
in the
line up? Tell me you don’t paddle right over to say "hi."
I admit
to whole breakfast conversations devoted to wave shape, sand bars and
crowd
strategies. Come to
a contest some time, and you’ll see that we girls watch each
other’s
heats and cheer each other on. I’m not saying we’re having
more fun than men, but we certainly appear to be. |
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NEW CLUB LOGO CONTEST
You voted (well
at least some of you did), and the winner of the new logo contest
is!

The
Original
Tradition
reigned over the upstarts, but not far behind it was a tie between
the "PB Longboard" design and the "Cone Shape" (a
white version of which is in the lead art at the top). The Board
is currently kicking around the idea of having new T-shirts printed
up with all three designs (separately of course). No one says we
can't have a variety of design styles and colors for members to
choose from. Look for them on sale soon at future club functions
and thanks to all
who
took
the time to vote. |
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Please welcome
the following new members into the club:
Max Ullman
Dave and Mary Helen Ish
Be sure to show
the PBSC aloha spirit to each when you see them at future club
meetings and events. |
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UPCOMING
EVENTS
Feb
17 & 18: The
Groundswell Society presents The 6th
Annual Surfing Arts, Science and Issues Conference "Surfing
Dynamics: New Surfboards, New Surf Spots, and a New Spirit"
Scripps
Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, Sumner Auditorium;
8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Saturday; Scripps Pier 8:00 a.m. to
noon on Sunday.
SASIC VI
presents a version of modern surfing based on new materials,
new surf spots, and a new spirit in the surfing community.
This two-day event is for surfers who refuse to be blinded
by the relentless commerce and competition that often limit
surfing’s promise and creativity. Attendees and speakers
will represent a spectrum of surfers, including innovative
engineers, adventurous dreamers, standout wave riders, and
legendary leaders of modern surfing who all have one thing
in common: a lifestyle that thrives on the energy of imagination
that fuels an inner rebel continually refreshed and inspired
by the spirit of free surfing.
Saturday presentations will include:
The Hydrodynamica Project – A presentation about the surfing quest exploring
the legacy of Bob Simmons and other innovators, including planing hulls and
twin fins from the past, and on to the present and future.
Homeblown Foam – Someday surfboards will be bio-based and bio-degradable – and
they’ll be stronger and faster than ever. This session will cover a new
initiative that is turning out to be a good start towards a true eco-board.
Third World Surfboards – A perspective on today’s surfboard industry
from the offshore factories to the homegrown garages. Presenters will include
Jason Kline, Cal Poly engineer and surfboard craftsman.
What Makes a Perfect Wave – This session will be presented by Bruce McFarland
of American Wave Machines and will include an in-depth look at a variety of
wave-making designs.
Fins: Facts and Fiction – A panel discussion on what works, what sells,
and what’s next will follow a presentation by Bob “The Greek” Bolen,
inventor of the unique “Turbo Tunnel” design.
Paddling the California Coast – An ambitious plan to paddle from Oregon
to Mexico to call attention to surf zone environmental issues. Tim Kessler
will present his “Coastal Dreams” project scheduled to launch this
year.
There will be a special showing of “Waves Across the Pacific,” the
1963 documentary on Dr. Walter Munk’s pioneering work at Scripps concerning
Antarctic storms and “Southern Hemi” groundswells, to be followed
by a brief ceremony honoring Dr. Munk. The conference will conclude on Saturday
with a session presented by Glenn Hening, 2006 Regents Lecturer at UCSB on “Modern
Surfing: Is it a Business, a Contact Sport, or a Religion?”
On Sunday, the energy will shift to the beach with a morning of wave-testing
a variety of surfboard and fin designs from the past, present and future, including
Simmons-inspired designs, boards built from a variety of timeless materials
as well as innovative new technologies, along with a broad selection of fin
systems.
Registration is $45 – includes a parking permit and a box lunch for the
first 75 attendees. Students and seniors get in for free, but park and lunch
on your own. Seating is limited. Send a check made out to the Groundswell Society
to the address below. Sorry, no plastic accepted. This event is gonna be almost
as bitchen as a good swell – and although it won’t be on the WAM
map, you’ll be glad you saved the date.
Groundswell Society
5212 Moonstone Way
Oxnard Shores, California 93035
805-382-0657
g.hening@rain.org
Click
here to register
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